Bibliography

Websites

• Linda Alchin, 2015, Elizabethan Hair Styles (viewed Tuesday, 29th September 2015), available from: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm
• Chertsey Museum, 2015, The Styling of Society: Elizabethans, (viewed Tuesday 29th September), available from: http://chertseymuseum.org/hair

Films

• Elizabeth, 1998, directed by Shekhar Kapur
• Elizabeth: The Golden Age, 2007, directed by Shekhar Kapur
• Funny Face, 1957, directed by Stanley Donan
• Seven Photographs that changed Fashion, 2009 (TV), BBC 4, Wednesday 14th January 21:00, presented by Rankin

Books

• Chapters 4 and 5, in: Fenja Gunn, 1973, The Artificial Face: a History of Cosmetics, David & Charles, pp. 53-88
• Susan Doran and Norman Jones, 2014, The Elizabethan World, Routledge Worlds

Galleries

• National Portrait Gallery, visited on Thursday 15th October

My assessment - Dil's final look

I was really pleased with how I styled Dil's hair for this assessment. I used a larger, black hair rat filled with hair which made it much easier to mould, and gave the hair more height. I backcombed the hair at the front of Dil's hair a lot, hairspraying each section as I went, and found this made the hair easier to shape too. When pinning into place, I hid the pins underneath the central section of hair, as pictured. I also used pins with small pearls on them for any parts of the hair that needed holding down where the pins would be harder to hide, keeping the hair neat and also Elizabethan. I used a lot of spray to hold down flyaways, tucking them down with a pintail comb. Dil had decided to change her design so that no tendrils would be left hanging at the sides, and so that the ribbon would only cover the elastic of the ponytail, rather than sit along her whole hairline. She also wanted to add feathers, which she provided. Having not practised with these, I was very happy with how I added them to the style, again using pearled pins to hold them in place.

I felt that I worked efficiently and safely, in constant communication with Dil, who was also very happy with the finished look.  

Dil's assessment - my final look

I thought that in the hair assessment, Dil did the best job she has done yet. The plaits were a good thickness and sat neatly across my forehead, she made the ponytail very neat and slick, and she added a gem and some gold ribbon, as my design notes stated, to finish the look off. I think our communication was effective, and felt Dil worked professionally, quickly and safely. I left the assessment feeling very happy with Dil's work, and proud of my design; in these final images I definitely felt like what I had designed was a modern twist on Elizabethan hair. 

My third practice of Dil's design

I crimped all of Dil's hair to add volume and texture, and this time rolled a hair rat in hair, pinning it on top of her head, rather than just placing it there. This gave held more securely and made it easier to hide, although it still was not a black hair rat, which we will use for the assessment, meaning it still showed through a bit. Dil decided she didn't like the zigzag sections from our last practice so we went back to simply crimping the whole front section. I backcombed it, pulled it over the hair rat and pinned it into place at the back, hiding the pins underneath a top section which hung in the middle. I used a pintail comb to pull out parts that looked a little flat, making the shape more round. In hindsight, more backcombing would have made this part easier to mould. I used hairspray to stick down flyaway hairs, tied the lower section into a side ponytail and then placed a golden plait around Dil's hairline, tying the ends around the ponytail to hide the elastic. Dil decided not to use a ribbon, and to place the plait instead further forward so that it did not squash the mound of hair. Finally, I experimented with the loose tendrils in front of Dil's ears, using tongs to curl one side and wrapping the hair around a pintail comb and heating it up to create a really tight coil on the other side. Dil wants something in between these two, so I will most likely use thinner tongs. The back of the head was slightly messy this time, but I think when I use the proper hair rat, which will be larger, the back will be easier to pin into place neatly. Other than that, Dil as happy with the height and shape, and was pleased with the look I created. 

Dil's third practice of my design

In this practice, we added extra hair to make the plaits across my forehead thicker. We used golden hair as it worked nicely with my red hair, and added a sense of royalty. My hair was greasy, which Dil found made it it easier to work with, and made the ponytail more sleek. At first, she added too much hair, so the plait across my forehead was too thick and covered the other plait. On the other side she used less, which I much preferred. For the assessment she will make both plaits thinner so that they both sit comfortably on my forehead. When tying my ponytail, Dil took a thin section of hair from all around the hair donuts and tied it in a thin ponytail first, tying the full ponytail around this afterwards. She found this made it sit higher, more on top of the hair donuts. I really liked the experimentation in this practice and think we have found more effective methods now. Dil worked quite quickly, meaning we will definitely have time to add final touches, such as tying a gold ribbon around the ponytail to hair elastic, and making the ponytail more slick with hairspray. 

Dil's second practice of my design

In this practice, I brought small hair donuts and gold ribbon with me. Dil towered one donut on top of the other and pinned them into place at the top of the back of my head, tying a ponytail around them so that my head appeared elongated. Unfortunately, my hair was quite wavy, which meant the ponytail was not as sleek as I will want. For the final assessment we may need to straighten my hair first, to get a smoother finish. Then Dil tied a gold ribbon around the base of the ponytail to hide the hair elastic, split the ponytail in to two, then backcombed both sections in order to give the plaits more of a messy, modern look, and plaited them, including the gold ribbon. Like before, she gradually added loose hair left out of the ponytail to create plaits long enough to reach over my forehead. On one side, she used more gold ribbon so that it would be more visible - we decided this is the method we would use for my final look. She also suggested that she adds extra hair to the plaits to thicken them as they were very thin across the forehead, so we will experiment with this. However, I was happier in this practice that in the first one. I thought the gold gave the whole look a much more royal, wealthy effect - as though the halo braids were a crown. I also preferred how it looked now that my hair is red! 

Second practice of Dil's design

Dil and I came back to the studio in the evening to practice each other's hair designs again. Improving on last time and following feedback from Dil, this time I placed the hair rat further forwards in order to create more height. Dil wanted front sections of her hair to be left out while I crimped her whole head, so that they could be crimped using a hair pin (the figure-of-eight technique), creating larger, zigzag waves which could be placed in strips over the mound of hair, making it more textured and interesting. I did this instead of leaving tendrils in front of her ears down, as that did not work very effectively last time. I improvised with a red ribbon as we did not have the ribbon Dil actually wants to use, to give us an idea of how it would look. I thought it added a much more contemporary feel and was pleased with how it finished off the look. 

In further practice I will use a black hair rat which Dil will provide, as I struggled to hide this light brown one under the hair very well. The hair rat will also be a better, more mouldable shape, as this one made it hard to make the hair very rounded. I still need to work at hiding hair pins!

Overall, I am more pleased with how this practice turned out, than I was the practice before. I now have a more complete idea of how the finished outcome will look and myself and Dil feel confident in my abilities to execute it well. 

My first practice of Dil's final design

Edging nearer towards assessment day, I recreated Dil's design for practice. I crimped all of her hair, split it into top and bottom sections, and then backcombed the whole upper section. I then pinned a hair rat on top of her head and lay the hair back over it, pinning it into place at the back, and adjusting it with a pintail comb to make it more rounded. I loosely tied the lower section into a ponytail down the side. For the final assessment I will add ribbon or lace across the front of Dil's head, and tied around the side ponytail, draping down the length of the hair. Lastly, I crimped the loose tendrils in front of Dil's ears by wrapping them in a figure-of-eight way around a pin and clamping it between straighteners. On the left side of her head I combed this part out less, leaving a more zigzag effect, which we both preferred. 

I was happy with how I did Dil's hair, although next time I will place the hair rat a little further forward, to create more height on top of her head and make it more rounded, like her design. However, I initially felt quite anxious about creating this look as I felt it looked quite difficult, considering my skill level and lack of background in hair; so I think I did a good job. 

Dil's first practice of my final design

I decided to go with my first design idea for my hair assessment, because I felt it looked most interesting, and was a good mixture of modern and Elizabethan hairstyles.

My partner and I tried one another's hair designs on each other. Once I'd talked it through with Dil, we decided she would first have a go at simply putting my hair in a ponytail split into two plaits. However these two plaits were not long enough to reach over my forehead in a halo braid effect, so we decided four plaits - two in the ponytail and two above either ear - would work better. Being without a hair donut on this occasion, we used a hair rat, but it sat a little too low, rather than underneath the band of ponytail, so I am hoping a donut will give a more central positioning. Dil plaited the ponytail, incorporating the hair left above my ears into them in a french braid style, so that they would reach over my forehead. She overlapped them and gripped them into place, and then made sure that the ponytail was sleek and neat, with the use of hairspray. On the right side of my head, the plait at the back sat higher; I preferred the left side, where it draped lower. In further practices and the final assessment, we will use a donut to elongate the head, and weave gold ribbon around the ponytail to cover the hairband, and into the plaits; symbolic of royalty and Elizabethan jewellery. I have also decided to add a gem in the centre of my hairline, enhancing the 'heart-shaped' face shape that was fashionable in Elizabethan times. 

Overall, I think my partner did a very good job. Unfortunately my hair was freshly washed, and therefore quite slippery; for the assessment I will make sure it has more texture and grip, or provide the products to make it so. 

Following my partner's hair design - Dil

Having spoken through my partner, Dil's, designs with her, I decided to practice one on my doll head, using her hair chart for guidance. 

I found the hair chart very easy to follow; it had good drawings and clear labelling. I am pleased with my result and feel that I have executed the two different plaits and the style of bun well. I was working with a doll that had previously had crimped hair, and I found that this texture and volume really helped to style it. However, the hair is quite short. I think working on Dil's hair may be easier, as it has more length. For example, on my doll, I had to adapt the fishtail plait at the front, making two plaits - one on either side of the head, and overlapping them - instead of one plait reaching across the whole hairline. On the hair chart it did not state where the french plait would end, so I took the initiative and ran it round to join the bun. The only improvement I think I could make, in hindsight, is tucking up loose hairs at the nape of the neck. 

I think the whole style looks very nice and I am looking forward to recreating it on Dil's hair. 

Hair design practice

Design 1: hair too short; plaits not long enough to drape where I wanted them

Design 2: ponytail not as long and freely hanging as I'd like. Texture meant plaits were stiff and stayed in place. 

Design 3: bun was very small.

Mounds at front need more backcombing or maybe padding to thicken them, and to avoid see-through bits. The crimped texture made it nicely voluminous. As I was concerned about in my design, this look has ended up too Elizabethan, and less contemporary.

I struggled with the short length of the hair doll, as the styles I have planned would work better with longer hair. Also, the hair had previously been crimped so was almost too textured to work easily with. However, I found it good to practice and physicalise my drawn designs. 

To avoid my designs being too simple and add further Elizabethan elements, I've decided to add gold ribbon woven into the plaits on to my designs for my partner to follow. I will also experiment with padding or a hair donut underneath the ponytail, to elongate the head and add volume in a typical Elizabethan fashion. 

Following this practice, I feel confident my partner will be okay to follow my chosen design.